Each Chef Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.

Brandon Atkinson
Brandon Atkinson

Lena is a sustainability advocate and writer passionate about green technology and environmental conservation.